This is golden eggplant is the dish I make whenever we have company for dinner and there are vegetarians among us or I feel like something a little lighter is in order. Even the carnivores among us like a meatless meal once in a while, and besides, eggplant is such a meaty vegetable! I roast the eggplant halves in a very hot oven until they char, and then serve them topped them with more vegetables and a yogurt-tahini sauce. Right now, I’m using roasted butternut squash and red onions for the vegetables, but you can also use whatever vegetables are in season. Every once in a while, you get an eggplant that’s bitter, and it’s impossible to tell which ones they are just by looking. To avoid any potential bitterness in your finished dish, salt the halved eggplants and let the juices run out. Then rinse and pat dry before cooking. It’s a quick step – called “degorger” in French – and it’s worth the extra time you have to wait. Serve the cooked, charred eggplant with pilaf on the side, and you have a satisfying supper with vibrant colors, a little heat, crunch, aromatics, and a cooling sauce. The guests at my table are always delighted.

1/2 cup whole-milk or low-fat plain yogurt 2 tablespoons tahini paste 2 tablespoons lemon juice

For the eggplant:

2 medium eggplants (1 1/2 pounds total) 2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste 6 tablespoons olive oil, divided 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1/2 peeled, seeded butternut squash, and cut into 1/2-inch slices (about 1 pound) 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1/4 red onion, thinly sliced 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar 1 jalapeno or other small green chili pepper, cored, seeded, and thinly sliced 1/2 cup whole parsley leaves 

Sprinkle with 2 teaspoons of the salt and set the eggplant on a large rimmed baking sheet, cut side up, for 30 minutes. You’ll see liquid coming out of the cuts. After 30 minutes are up, rinse the eggplant and pat dry with paper towels. Use the towels to wipe the baking sheet. Roast the eggplant and butternut for 35 to 40 minutes, or until the eggplant is golden brown, the squash is browned on the bottom, and both are tender when pierced with a skewer. If the eggplant isn’t browned, remove the butternut from the baking sheet and continue cooking the eggplant for 5 more minutes. Keep the eggplant warm covered loosely with foil on the top of the stove while you finish the vegetable topping. Transfer the roasted butternut to a cutting board and cut into 1/2-inch pieces. Fold the butternut, jalapeno, and parsley into the bowl with the onions. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper, if you like.